Rocks!

Saturday: Clear Creek Canyon

Saturday was a big day, because we found ourselves a new home in Manitou Springs, a very fun little town next to Colorado Springs. We are going to live at the foot of Pikes Peak in a cozy little house. Awesome!  Our day couldn't start any better and happily we drove to Clear Creek Canyon for a nice day of climbing.

I had searched for a 5.13b in the guidebook because I've still my goal to climb my first 8a in April.... (eight days left, I don't think it's going to happen anymore :( ). I found out there were two at Primo Area that seemed really fun, so we went there. First we had to cross the river by a tyrolean traverse. That was terrible! I didn't know how to do that and hadn't the right technique at all! Pumped in my biceps with abrasions on my knees and ankles before I made it to the other side of the river. I didn't like the idea at all that I had to do that again on the way back. But first climbing!

Tyrolean traverse over the river

There were some nice warm-ups at the same wall and the style of climbing was bouldery on big jugs. Pretty funny. Then I climbed a very special route called Mirthmobile! Of course that was an amazing route :D.

Mirthe in Mirthmobile

After that I started to try Squeeze Play (5.13b/c). After figuring out some moves I came half way but didn't find the confidence to lead the next part. Pascal had the same problem at that point and aided his way up and hung out a toprope. By that time the wind was freezing cold and so were my hands. When I attempted the route toprope, it didn't feel nice at all and I couldn't figure out the crux passage where I had struggled before. I noticed that this wouldn't be the route to redpoint. Not my style, not nice enough (maybe even chipped on some places?) and to difficult.
This was my second attempt in a route of this grade. While everybody says I am capable of doing it and I started to believe in that myself, I think that two factors are keeping me back from actually do it. My lack of experience with outdoor climbing and working a project while leading. So maybe I just have to put the goal out of my head and just start to get experience in lower grades on outdoor rock for now. 

Sunday: Shelf Road

Yesterday we were thinking about what to do. The sun was shining and the choice was easy: go climbing. Where? Shelf Road. Long bands of yellow/red limestone just one hour driving from our home: that's Shelf Road! An amazing sportsclimbing area here in Colorado. We went there on our preview trip one year ago and experienced the super nice style of climbing and great views that Shelf has to offer. 

Shelf Road, the limestone band on the background

We arrived pretty late. Imminent clouds where hanging above the area and a cold breeze was blowing. We went to one of the closest sectors to the parking: The Bank: North Side. I wanted to try a route called Surreal Estate (5.12c) after I had seen a great picture of it in the guidebook. Unfortunately it turned out that this was the only route with bad, old bolts... So we climbed the other three routes with pretty funny names for this day: Stormy Weather, Heavy Weather and Unusual Weather. The last one describes the weather best, because after a couple of raindrops the evening sun was coming through and it was a beautiful evening to climb. 

I screwed up the warm-up route (5.11a) which made me a little bit insecure. The first three meters were extremely hard, but later we found out that I had to start far more left :). The second route (5.11c) gave me confidence again, because that one felt much easier then the first. The last route (5.12a) was super pumpy so I was very happy that I finished it on-sight. Especially when I found out that the consensus about this route is 5.12a/b.

Can not wait to go back and explore all the other climbing areas here!!!!!!!!

We stopped on the way back to take this awesome picture!

SCS 2012 Open National Championships

With a little bit delay, Pascal and I finally moved to the USA, Colorado! We are five days into a new life, a new continent, a new climbing gym with new rules, climbing holds and people.

Despite being extremely busy finding a new house, car and getting administrative things arranged, we were still able to squeeze in two climbing sessions at our new local gym City Rock. The new climbing gym gave us new climbing challenges, none of the holds were familiar to us and we were gasping for air after climbing a route. It looks like we haven't fully adjusted to living above 2000 meters yet. Another big difference is that the routes in the US climbing gyms tend to be defined by colored tags that are placed underneath the holds. This makes the routes less obvious, because you can't just follow one color of holds.

Back in the Netherlands I had signed me up for the SCS Open National Championships at Movement Climbing gym in Boulder. I wanted to experience what it's like to compete in the USA. It wasn't until we came here that I realized what the SCS Open Nationals were all about. It is the main lead climbing event where the best climbers from all over the country travel to participate hoping to win a spot on the US National Climbing team. I saw Sasha DiGiulian on the list and other super strong climbers and almost regretted signing up myself. But I did and yesterday was the day!

When we walked in the gym, we could already see the routes because it was a flash format. They looked awesome! One color of holds in one route (good for me!) on a great overhanging wall. They had a video running that showed how the route could be climbed. At the start of my first route was a big sloper and I couldn't figure out how good it was. I had to feel it. 

I was second on the starting list for route B. Francesca Metcalf was first and I saw her climbing very smooth and steady. Supercool to watch. I had to tie in to the rope and it was funny to notice that the rope had the colors of the USA flag. "I'm really living here know", I thought by myself. When I had to start climbing, my hands were tingling and I couldn't get my nerves under control. I got passed the big sloper and climbed further. Couldn't think, didn't know if my hands would stick the holds, crazy! Worse then my first lead climbing competition a few weeks ago. Half way I forgot the sequence, searched and fell. Wow, I got further then I ever imagined!! After my climb, the judges showed me on the routeboard where they had seen me fall. I had to sign to agree. Very well organized!

After an hour I started on my second route. I saw most of the girls of group A climbing, so I knew where the difficult parts in the route were. Much more relaxed I started this route, passed the first two difficult sequences and  fell approximately 3/4 of the way up. A very nice first experience and I'm looking forward to climb more competitions! The next big competition is the World Cup Bouldering in Vail. I have two months left to train hard, and I surely will!

Today we are going to tour some more houses in Colorado Springs and are then going up to Boulder to watch the finals tonight!!! 

Lead 1

Yesterday I climbed my first ever lead competition. The competition was held at Mountain Network Nieuwegein and is the first out of three competitions in to qualify for the National Championships. We had to climb two routes flash in order to qualify for the final on-sight route. It didn't go as I had expected. 

The first route started as 6b and gradually went up to 6c. I had to start second, after Eva Vink who steady climbed to the top. I knew that I could lead 6c easily but the nerves still got to me. I climbed steady and started climbing carefully at the crux. Unfortunately I wasn't careful and made the wrong decision to put my right foot very high up (instead of my left). It didn't feel right, but because I couldn't see my feet anymore I decided to pull through. A big shouldery move and as I got higher and higher I knew I wouldn't make it to the next hold. At the same time I was thinking on the fall that would come. Then I fell! Wow, super far! It gave me a nice kick, but I quickly realized that I should have climbed this (easiest) route for a place in the finals. I got really grumpy, especially when I saw one after the other topping the route. I felt ashamed and didn't like it at all but I also hated myself being so grumpy. So I tried to cheer myself up and started in the second route.

The second qualification route was super nice. Started 7a, ended 7b(+?). I climbed steady to the overhanging part, felt strong not tired, climbed further and wanted to clip on a two/three finger pocket. I wasn't able to stick the hold long enough and fell. Again a really nice fall.

It took a while before I could get my anger tempered and adjust my shame. My recent climbing performance led to expectations that I wasn't able to live up to in this competition. That made me feel terrible, never had that feeling before. After this experience I understand the importance of mental strength (in many ways). It's very different from boulder competitions, where you often have a second change if you make one mistake. I ended up 11th, that's a big bummer but knowing I could have done better, give me confidence to try it again another time.

After the competition I couldn't wait to jump into the second men's qualifier. The route looked awesome and it was! Small crimps, cross-overs and powerful moves on my favorite continuous overhanging wall. To my surprise, I managed to lead this route pretty far. 
It was interesting that I was scared for falling again, something which was less apparent while competing! This last thing was one of the reasons why I wanted to participate at a lead competition: to experience how it feels to lead while I'm excited and nervous. That feeling was nice! Of course the mistakes I made and knowing that I failed on something I was hoping to do better wasn't great at all. It was hard to deal with, but after all probably a good lesson. Other peoples expectations led to some critical, or even nasty comments. That was difficult to hear and really hurt my feelings. I was glad it was well compensated by the majority of people who encouraged me. Thank you guys!


All the (six) competition routes were awesome, make sure you come over to check it out! 

Days before my first lead competition

Tomorrow will be the day of my first lead competition! I'm super excited and curious how it will feel to compete with a rope :) I wasn't allowed to train this last week in my own local climbing gym, Mountain Network Nieuwegein, because that's the place where it's going to happen tomorrow!
But that was not bad at all because we went to some other fun gyms!

When we landed at Eindhoven Airport after our Siurana trip, we decided to do some bouldering at Monk Bouldergym. They've re-build their small climbing 'mushroom' and now it's huge! We had a great time bouldering on this new, long overhanging prow.

Pascal and I went to Klimhal Amsterdam on Tuesday and did a few lead routes. I really like the lead-climb opportunity in this gym, especially because their's none in MN Nieuwegein. We didn't climb much however, because we were attracted by the DMM test corner. Someone from the DMM manufacturing facility is doing a road trip and has most of DMM's climbing material on display.
Next to the look-and-feel possibility they brought one of their cool testing machines that can measure the force at which climbing materials break. DMM is still visiting other gyms so take a look if you can be there! Bring your own old climbing gear with you, to see how much force it can take!

Wednesday I went climbing and bouldering with my climbing partner Geer and Pascal at Klimmuur Haarlem, the gym where we used to climb when we lived in Haarlem. 

Thursday it was a sunny 18 degrees spring-feeling day so we went to Klimhal Amsterdam again to climb on their impressive outdoor climbing wall! Pascal, Stephan and I enjoyed the great weather and the fun climbing routes. I couldn't climb as much as I wanted, because my finger ached to much :(
Make sure you check out the outdoor climbing ans bouldering facility this summer, it's so cool! Bart showed me the coming Chillaz winter collection and there's a lot of really cool stuff!! It was funny to try-on winter clothing at the sunniest day after the Winter!

Friday and Saturday (today) I didn't climb, so I'm craving right now and looking forward to compete tomorrow!! 

Some pictures and a small movie I made with my new camera. 

Pascal climbing outdoors at Klimhal Amsterdam

Stephan climbing outdoors at Klimhal Amsterdam

Pascal and Stephan at the rock-like outdoor wall

Short Siurana Trip

Dani Andrada putting up a new route in L'Olla

A week ago we (Pascal and I) got the message that our visa application for the US was approved! Because we are waiting so long now, we decided very quickly to move end of this month. We had to decide what to do with our last weeks. The most important thing on our list was to climb one more time on European rock! Germany, Belgium and France, the closest areas, were to cold. The choice was easy... fly the Spain and visit Siurana. Blue skies and sunny 16 degree weather. We left on Wednesday evening, and got back at Sunday morning. That gave us three days to climb!


My Mission
Since a few months I've been playing with the idea to climb my first 8a. My goal is to climb that grade before the end of April, because I want to continue the line of progress with one grade up every year. I never tried an 8a yet, and it had to happen on this trip because April is approaching rapidly. 


L'Olla
The first day we went to a sector called L'Olla. We knew there had to be tufa's, something we enjoy! We were not the only ones at the sector. Dani Andrada was putting up a new route in the impressive bulge on the left side of the sector. Pete O'Donovan, publisher of guidebooks, was taking pictures and the Japanese Tatsuya Kiyosawa was working in his project Pota d'Elefant (7c+).

We decided to start with one of the easiest routes in the sector: Cargol Treu Banya (7a). Quickly we understood that the first three meters contain the crux: two-finger pockets in an overhanging wall. After I clipped the first bolt, I was searching and couldn't figure out my next move. Take! Soon I found the next pocket and finished the route. Second route was Valga'm Déu Quin Patir (7a+). Again a crux move in the start, pumped, take and easy finish. 

After our struggle, we belayed Tatsuya in his project and he did it! He was super happy to climb his first 7c+ of his climbing career. After this great moment, we decided to take a look at Siuranelle Sud. L'Olla was to bouldery on pockets in overhang for us. After walking for thirty minutes it became obvious we took the wrong path (a recurring problem we always encounter). Back at the road we figured out that it was probably easier to go to Can Piqui Pugui. Lost again! Our last option for the day was to drive to the biggest parking at Siurana and walk within 3 seconds to the rock :). That worked out for us and we picked a 7a route. After that one it was time for beers!

Tatsuya Kiyosawa has finished his project!

Siuranella Sud
Day two we purchased a better guidebook (by David Brascó and Natalia Campillo) instead of the small guide Guia D'Escalades a Siurana by Toni Arbonés and Mariam Caravaca. This made it a lot easier to find the well-marked path to Siuranella Sud and there it was: La Crema, 8a. The route I wanted to try. After warming up in a nice 6b+ called Like a Cuc I started to work on the route. WOW! Amazing cool moves, exactly my style. The first part (a little bit bouldery) went easy, but I got pumped after a few meters. Then I got to the first crux that, after a rest, went well. Continuing on nice crimps I arrived at the top part. A grey bump without holds, only a very sharp sloper. I tried the passage a couple of times but didn't find the confidence (leading is sometimes still exciting) and couldn't manage to do the moves. After this passage it was an easy topout. I decided to try it toprope after Pascal tried the route. Got pumped again and couldn't finish it. I couldn't even try the crux anymore due to my skin (gone). Such a bummer because it is one of the most fantastic routes I've ever tried, but the crux at the top was to hard for me!


Third day
The last climbing day we went to Can Pigui Pugui (we found it this time) and Esperó Primavera. In the first sector we tried only one route: Tapbioles I Pirretes,7a. When I came at the difficult part of the route, (pockets and overhang) I couldn't climb further. I noticed some blood at the wall, watched my fingers and saw the problem. To sharp and to hard for me. Luckily Pascal could do these moves, but again we decided to change plans. This was (again) not our style of climbing. When we arrived at Esperó Primavera I saw immediately a beautiful line. Someone was climbing it and oh my god it looked awesome. It turned out that this route was 7b+, called Mandrágora. After the first five meters I blocked. Pumped (haha again) and couldn't figure out what to do. I got some tips from the guy that climbed it before me and it turned out that I had to make a big supercool crossover (one of my favorite movements). After that I had to climb further, but it was hard to avoid a wrong foot position in relation to the rope and there I stood: crimping a small hold on the left and I had to change my foot position. I did, clipped, hung in the rope and blocked. Oh my god! My nerves! Everybody on the ground was happy because I managed to climb the hardest part but I didn't dare to climb further, even though they said it was much more easier from there. I came down and Pascal tried but the route didn't fit his style. I had renewed confidence and went again and finished the rest of the route with a few blocks. Such an awesome route! Still a little bit sad that I couldn't send it. We concluded our trip at L'Aparador where Pascal chose Rauxa, 7a+. The style of this route was totally different from the other routes at Siurana. It consisted of cracks, overhang and corners. I was frozen but couldn't resist to climb this last route toprope after Pascal. I'm glad I did, because this was also a really nice route!

Mandrágora (right line)

We had three fantastic days of climbing in great weather and Siurana offered many different climbing styles (including my favorite!) I really want to go back there some day and climb more of these beautiful routes and finish my new projects :D

Hard Moves 2012

The Dutch Team!

Volumes are cool!!! I had an awesome time bouldering the fantastic boulderproblems at the Hard Moves competition in Wuppertal! Since Enya (qualified for the finals in Cube Bouldergym) was injured, I was invited by Herman Engbers to participate as part of their gladiator team. I am happy that I accepted his offer, because I had a lot of fun with them.

The format of this competition was new for me. Qualification rounds were held at different gyms in Germany, Switzerland, Belgium and The Netherlands. The finals took place at the Wupperwände in Wuppertal in which the ten best qualified men and women from every gym could participate. From 1pm until 6pm all the participants tried their hardest on forty boulderproblems. Each climbed problem by a person, resulted in one point for the team ranking. The highest score would be 400 points for one team. The five best teams had to send five team members into the finals to compete in five boulderproblems. The crowd was amazing and the boulder problems were very spectaculair. 

My qualification
It was supercrowded and when we had to start our qualification I was nervous like never before. Shaking on my feet because I had seen only super muscled, strong boulderers and was afraid to fail. After five problems, including some more difficult problems, I got relaxed and enjoyed the amazing beautiful problems. So different then I'm used to climb. I noticed that I was able to keep up with these strong people and even flashed some hard problems. I've also noticed again that I love my La Sportiva Solutions because I could stick to small foot holds where everybody slipped off! We didn't make it into the finals and ended with a 16th place out of twenty teams. I managed to climb 21 problems of the forty, almost 22 :D

Bouldering: playing in the gym!

Bouldering is fun! In my local gym I'm usually rope-climbing, but Monday I did some bouldering with Stephan and Maurits! We had fun with traversing a boulderingroute and played the bouldering game. We even did a 'derviche' without knowing what that is! Gaby taught us this new word for the strange movement we made in our boulder. I had a great day and was totally finished after six hours of climbing. Strange, because when I started with climbing I could easily climb whole day long in the gym.

The day before, Sunday, I also went bouldering with Marta, Nick, Myrthe and Armand at Monk Bouldergym. Vera told us that the black circuit was super nice and technical and she was totally right. Every black problem I did was beautiful! After two easy circuits, I did some more powerful problems and I noticed that I was strong! Always nice. Together with Nick and Armand I did some exercises on the campus board afterwards and we had some gymnastic childish fun on the mats before grabbing a delicious beer!
After this bouldering session I had two days of muscle pain! I was surprised that I could climb the day after in Nieuwegein. Yesterday, however, I was weak! After one day of rest, I went climbing with my friend Geer in Haarlem but I got pumped after every four moves I made. Haha. Friday I'm going to climb with Armand and I will focus on anaerobic endurance. In a while I'll evaluate my training days and write something about that.