Monday, October 27, 2014

Bist du dęppad?! Short Maltatal (Austria) bouldering trip

As you might have guessed after my last blog post, we had to go back to Stephan in Austria. This time we enjoyed a short week in the sweet Tangern area and got three days on the beautiful boulders in Maltatal.


Something was different this time, because we brought someone with us, Lizzie the Wizzie!! Our brand new family member. This little sweet puppy was very pleased to meet Flow and oh my gosh: they had SO MUCH FUN together. And Lizzie was so much braver than we could have ever guessed. Hopping around in the boulder area and running after the super fast Flow.

Tried hard

For me it was a whole different experience this time, bouldering in Maltatal. I had been training harder in The Netherlands the weeks before we went, but unfortunately it didn't brought me any results. Whereas I finished some nice 7b's and 7a's last time, I only topped one problem this time!!! Crazy?! Cold hands and too many people in the area might have been the problem... I'm not exactly sure.

At first I got pretty frustrated about it, I wanted to top out something. That's were we came for, right? I had some nice problems I wanted to climb, none of them worked out for me this time. Even though I tried pretty hard, I guess. Well, later on I got used to it and I enjoyed the 'training aspect' of trying without finishing. In the end I managed to climb one 7a+ on really small crimps and a hard core tension start. Just watch the video to see it. The others climbed much more, including some 7c's for Stefan (Sweet!!).

Now I'm back I feel super psyched to train again, even harder and get fit. When it is getting warm outside again, I will be back to finish some nice lines.

Special thanks to my sponsor

Just before this trip, I received a really awesome Chillaz Crashpad from Bart (Klimhal Amsterdam).
This thing is just so amazing! It has so many features which makes it the best pad I ever used. It's thick, has inflatable air mattresses in-between, plenty of stuffing space, is super big and it has a great board game on the inside! You should definitely check it out if your planning on getting a new crashpad. Read more and buy it at the bergsportshop.

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Bouldering in Maltatal

Stefan and I just got back from some very sweet weeks in Germany and Austria.

Maltatal Bouldering

We decided to visit our friend Stephan in Tangern, Austria where he's building a holiday home (check the website Berg & Sonne). The past months he was constantly teasing us with stories about amazing boulders and I must say, he didn't exaggerate a word!! I haven't been to much boulder crags, but this is some world class bouldering for sure. We had an amazing time with Stephan and his super sweet dog Flow in Maltatal.

Frankenjura Climbing

Before and after our visit to Stephan, we stopped in the Frankenjura. I must admit, we haven't climbed much. The weather was good, but the psych wasn't that high. Lack of endurance and Stefan got a cold. Nonetheless we had a super good time visiting some different crags, towns and movies :)

Video of the various boulders we climbed

All filmed boulders

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

I've quit climbing

A very funny rumor spread through the climbing gyms in The Netherlands.
I've quit climbing. Forever! At least, that's what I've heard from other people.

Haha, well... I can tell you one thing: I didn't quit.
But uhm yeah... I haven't been climbing much either.

Just a little fed up with the finger injury, sweaty gym and plastic routes.
Instead I've been doing some aggressive inline skating lately. Something I did as a kid, when I didn't know what fear was. Now... I do know what fear is :). But it's fun to be outside and practice some old and new tricks!

However, I guess Stefan and I should visit the gym more often from now on, because..... holiday is almost there and we will go CLIMBING.

Our plan is to go to the Frankenjura for a couple of weeks and then visit Stephan in Austria. Sweet!!!

Check out our last year video from the Frankenjura!

Saturday, February 15, 2014

Is it me? Hoogtelijn, NKBV

And then suddenly people tell you, that your picture is used in the climbing federation magazine.

I definitely want to give some credits to my Chillaz sponsor Klimhal Amsterdam for the nice outfit. That shorty I was wearing was my favorite item last summer! Looking forward to sunny days again!

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

ROUFF beanies

ROUFF Beanies

So cool. Me and my sweet climbing buddies are sponsored by ROUFF from now on.
We are beanie addicts, so I guess this is the best sponsor deal ever :D

Coming two months (February and March) ROUFF is offering a special deal!
€19,50 for a customized beanie! Specify your favorite colors and model and you'll have a super cool beanie just like me!

Also, if you are the 200th liker on ROUFF's facebook page, you'll get a free beanie!

You can buy ROUFF beanies at Sterk bouldergym and Spring stores in Utrecht.

And the climbing?

Not much climbing going on lately.
Instead I have been visiting doctors to figure out what to do with my ongoing finger injury.
At this moment i'm sleeping with a brace to prevent me from bending and squeezing my fingers. Hopefully this rest will improve recovery.

This week I started climbing again after a short break. It's time to get some fitness back. Climbing many easy routes... getting pumped like crazy... looking forward to get on some harder stuff within a few weeks.

Friday, January 3, 2014

Holidays in Geyikbayiri, Turkey + Review Climbers Garden Camping

Full of expectations, Stefan and I went to Turkey for two weeks of good, sweet rock climbing. 
We were craving for some sunshine, rocks and relaxation.

Unfortunately, only the sun fulfilled our needs.
During the two weeks at the crags, we got more and more tensed.

It's not really in my nature to complain, but I guess this time I should. Just to make others aware of our bad experience.

Review Climbers Garden Campsite 

We were not happy at all with the campsite where we were staying. We went to Climbers Garden and (excluding the restaurant) pretty much everything sucked. There was no warm water, if there was water at all. We encountered thousands of bugs in the public kitchen, Also the atmosphere in the shared rooms was frustrating. Most of the others were grumpy and weren't polite at all. So if you tried to cook yourself a meal in the crowded kitchen, you got pushed around without any apologies. Another irritating thing was that we were told to make a reservation in order to get some bread in the morning. So we did, but often it was finished and our reserved bread was given away. Also, no excuses. Sometimes we got a bit leftover from the day before or they told us to go to the neighbor. At the third night we startled awake by digging just next to our tent. It turned out a couple set up their tent 5 cm. next to us and moved a big hump of gravel.
A few days after, everything in our tent got soaking wet because we were standing on a sloping site whereby our outer tent couldn't protect us from the rain.

At the end of our stay, the boss wouldn't talk to us about our bad experience. The only thing what he could say was: "they should have moved to another campsite if they didn't like it". Well, probably we should have done that earlier. We heard from others that there was warm water at Josito, that is was quiet at Rido camp and that the tea was free all day long at Kezban. Those other three campsites are maybe a better choice to check out if you are heading to Geyikbayiri.

Climbers Garden campsite review

What about the climbing?

Well, I can't be really positive about the climbing either. It was cray crowded at the crags and again the other climbers weren't the most polite.
The second day I got a heavy rope burn because of the shitty rope course in a 7c. A huge gap between the wall and the rope... one small fall (without any weird stuff) and there it was. The open wound for the rest of the two weeks.
Most of the routes proved to be too long for our rope (and probably also our endurance). We didn't even try to get on it. Way to much trouble. Be sure to bring a 70/80m rope for sure if you go there.
So there was not much to do in our grade with our rope. If we wanted to get on some 8a and harder, most of the times we should have climbed 20 meters of 6th grade slab before the 8a even started. We didn't feel for that at all, so we got on three shorter routes graded 8a or harder and those weren't the nicest ones so we didn't even get the motivation to go for it.
There's only one route that I enjoyed and that was called Power Slave. A nice, continues route at a straight wall. Our last day we went to a sector called Küllüin. That was the sector we enjoyed most in the end. A nice combination of shorter, overhanging routes varying from 6a to 8b.

So, we are glad to be home again :) Crazy huh?
Going to built some nice hard projects in our sweet little plastic fantastic gym today, and get the climbing started again! 

Climbers Garden campsite review

Sunday, December 15, 2013

The Show Off 2013

So, I got invited for the Show Off 2013.
The Show Off is a funny competition whereby three Dutchies climb against 2 top climbers. This year Juliane Wurm and Jan Hojer were the guests. The goal was to climb a (not too difficult) route in which you really have to show off everything you’ve got.

The idea of leading a route while doing crazy moves, got me a little nerved. Also the fact that it was a dress-up kind of thing, made the whole thing pretty exciting. These things were exactly the reason why I wanted to do it. The challenge for me: dare to act crazy in front of a crowd

I got the opportunity to try the route one week before and figured out what powerful, spectacular moves I would do. I started the route with a dyno that day, but I wasn’t sure if I would stick the move at the day of the competition. Yesterday, I was still doubting if I would go for the dyno, or choose for the saver option. Well, it had to be spectacular right? So I went for the dyno.

The dyno worked out well and got my first cheers from the crowd. Thanks! That was exactly what I had hoped for, because the whole idea of The Show Off is to get as much support from the crowd as possible in order to win. I did some other tricks, threw some confetti down and ended with a couple of pull ups. Showing off everything I got :P

Still I was the loser of the night. I guess my sweater with the big letter ‘L’ suited well that night
The most spectacular moves that evening, were showed by Jan Hojer. OMG. He’s so crazy strong. It was great to see him going up the route while doing a couple of one-armers, planking half-way up and dynoing into a flag position. It was amazing.

And now… off to Turkey! Climbing some sweet rocks in Geyik Bayiri! 

Trying hard during the speed route - but waaaaaaaay to slow :)
Photo: Frank Penders

Throwing down some sweet hearts!!!
Photo: Frank Penders
Photo: Frank Penders
Photo: Frank Penders

Last crazy moves of the route
Photo: Frank Penders