It's been a while since my last blog post. May 23th, the Dutch Bouldering Championship was held in Delfts Bleau. After three qualifying rounds, I placed myself 10th out of 12 for the championships. With mixed feelings I went to the competition. I was happy to be in, but my injured hand was still very weak and painful (injured in the last qualifying round). It didn't heal up as quick as I had hoped and therefore I barely climbed the month in advance.
Semifinal and finalIn isolation I couldn't hold on to crimps and I told myself just to enjoy the climbing. Of course I was hoping for big slopers and slabs. And yes, we started with a slab in the semi finals. I'm pretty good on slabs most of the times, so I knew I should make sure to climb this one quick. This would be my chance to score! Unfortunately I slipped a couple of times on a tiny foothold. Got the problem in my 6h go. I was pretty disappointed and I was convinced this was my only chance. The second problem: a big overhang with tiny crimps. I didn't have any expectations. Maybe the only expectation was not to get far on it. And what happened? I flashed it. Crazy. I could get so much weight on my feet with many good heel-hooks, that I almost didn't even feel my hand! The last move was pretty hard for me, I could feel I lost some power in my shoulders. But I stayed with it and topped. I was super happy with it. The third problem had big slopers and I though it wouldn't be too hard. But it definitely was! Too hard for me and all the others, except Nikki van Bergen. The last problem was super cool. A jump and some difficult slopers to the top. Unfortunately I couldn't stick the jump. I got closer and closer every time, but could't manage to make it.
Of course I would be even happier if I would be totally fit without any injuries. So I decided after nationals to quit climbing for a while and heal up properly. My hand is at this moment still not fully recovered. I figured that all the injuries I have had last year, are the result of climbing sessions whereby I was trying too hard while my body was too weak. Every time I got injured, I needed some time off. Directly after the weeks without climbing, I attended a competition in which I had to try hard. With of course more chance to injure myself, which happened. At first I was complaining why my body was letting me down every time. What was wrong with me? At the moment when it dawned to me that I just had to make sure my body got stronger in order to avoid injuries, I decided to sign up for a fitness gym. I'm trying my antagonist muscles and getting my climbing muscles stronger. I'm also working my core. The routine I'm doing now every other day is:
Getting rid of injuries
15 minutes running
3x max. pull ups
3x max. chin ups
3x 15 reps chest fly
3x 10 reps bench press
3x max push ups
3x max tuck knees front lever pull ups
3x 15 reps one-arm elevated rows
3x 15 reps one-arm lat push down
finishing up with an abs workout