Saturday, February 15, 2014

Is it me? Hoogtelijn, NKBV

And then suddenly people tell you, that your picture is used in the climbing federation magazine.

I definitely want to give some credits to my Chillaz sponsor Klimhal Amsterdam for the nice outfit. That shorty I was wearing was my favorite item last summer! Looking forward to sunny days again!

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

ROUFF beanies

ROUFF Beanies

So cool. Me and my sweet climbing buddies are sponsored by ROUFF from now on.
We are beanie addicts, so I guess this is the best sponsor deal ever :D

Coming two months (February and March) ROUFF is offering a special deal!
€19,50 for a customized beanie! Specify your favorite colors and model and you'll have a super cool beanie just like me!

Also, if you are the 200th liker on ROUFF's facebook page, you'll get a free beanie!

You can buy ROUFF beanies at Sterk bouldergym and Spring stores in Utrecht.

And the climbing?

Not much climbing going on lately.
Instead I have been visiting doctors to figure out what to do with my ongoing finger injury.
At this moment i'm sleeping with a brace to prevent me from bending and squeezing my fingers. Hopefully this rest will improve recovery.

This week I started climbing again after a short break. It's time to get some fitness back. Climbing many easy routes... getting pumped like crazy... looking forward to get on some harder stuff within a few weeks.

Friday, January 3, 2014

Holidays in Geyikbayiri, Turkey + Review Climbers Garden Camping

Full of expectations, Stefan and I went to Turkey for two weeks of good, sweet rock climbing. 
We were craving for some sunshine, rocks and relaxation.

Unfortunately, only the sun fulfilled our needs.
During the two weeks at the crags, we got more and more tensed.

It's not really in my nature to complain, but I guess this time I should. Just to make others aware of our bad experience.

Review Climbers Garden Campsite 

We were not happy at all with the campsite where we were staying. We went to Climbers Garden and (excluding the restaurant) pretty much everything sucked. There was no warm water, if there was water at all. We encountered thousands of bugs in the public kitchen, Also the atmosphere in the shared rooms was frustrating. Most of the others were grumpy and weren't polite at all. So if you tried to cook yourself a meal in the crowded kitchen, you got pushed around without any apologies. Another irritating thing was that we were told to make a reservation in order to get some bread in the morning. So we did, but often it was finished and our reserved bread was given away. Also, no excuses. Sometimes we got a bit leftover from the day before or they told us to go to the neighbor. At the third night we startled awake by digging just next to our tent. It turned out a couple set up their tent 5 cm. next to us and moved a big hump of gravel.
A few days after, everything in our tent got soaking wet because we were standing on a sloping site whereby our outer tent couldn't protect us from the rain.

At the end of our stay, the boss wouldn't talk to us about our bad experience. The only thing what he could say was: "they should have moved to another campsite if they didn't like it". Well, probably we should have done that earlier. We heard from others that there was warm water at Josito, that is was quiet at Rido camp and that the tea was free all day long at Kezban. Those other three campsites are maybe a better choice to check out if you are heading to Geyikbayiri.

Climbers Garden campsite review

What about the climbing?

Well, I can't be really positive about the climbing either. It was cray crowded at the crags and again the other climbers weren't the most polite.
The second day I got a heavy rope burn because of the shitty rope course in a 7c. A huge gap between the wall and the rope... one small fall (without any weird stuff) and there it was. The open wound for the rest of the two weeks.
Most of the routes proved to be too long for our rope (and probably also our endurance). We didn't even try to get on it. Way to much trouble. Be sure to bring a 70/80m rope for sure if you go there.
So there was not much to do in our grade with our rope. If we wanted to get on some 8a and harder, most of the times we should have climbed 20 meters of 6th grade slab before the 8a even started. We didn't feel for that at all, so we got on three shorter routes graded 8a or harder and those weren't the nicest ones so we didn't even get the motivation to go for it.
There's only one route that I enjoyed and that was called Power Slave. A nice, continues route at a straight wall. Our last day we went to a sector called Küllüin. That was the sector we enjoyed most in the end. A nice combination of shorter, overhanging routes varying from 6a to 8b.

So, we are glad to be home again :) Crazy huh?
Going to built some nice hard projects in our sweet little plastic fantastic gym today, and get the climbing started again! 

Climbers Garden campsite review

Sunday, December 15, 2013

The Show Off 2013

So, I got invited for the Show Off 2013.
The Show Off is a funny competition whereby three Dutchies climb against 2 top climbers. This year Juliane Wurm and Jan Hojer were the guests. The goal was to climb a (not too difficult) route in which you really have to show off everything you’ve got.

The idea of leading a route while doing crazy moves, got me a little nerved. Also the fact that it was a dress-up kind of thing, made the whole thing pretty exciting. These things were exactly the reason why I wanted to do it. The challenge for me: dare to act crazy in front of a crowd

I got the opportunity to try the route one week before and figured out what powerful, spectacular moves I would do. I started the route with a dyno that day, but I wasn’t sure if I would stick the move at the day of the competition. Yesterday, I was still doubting if I would go for the dyno, or choose for the saver option. Well, it had to be spectacular right? So I went for the dyno.

The dyno worked out well and got my first cheers from the crowd. Thanks! That was exactly what I had hoped for, because the whole idea of The Show Off is to get as much support from the crowd as possible in order to win. I did some other tricks, threw some confetti down and ended with a couple of pull ups. Showing off everything I got :P

Still I was the loser of the night. I guess my sweater with the big letter ‘L’ suited well that night
The most spectacular moves that evening, were showed by Jan Hojer. OMG. He’s so crazy strong. It was great to see him going up the route while doing a couple of one-armers, planking half-way up and dynoing into a flag position. It was amazing.

And now… off to Turkey! Climbing some sweet rocks in Geyik Bayiri! 

Trying hard during the speed route - but waaaaaaaay to slow :)
Photo: Frank Penders

Throwing down some sweet hearts!!!
Photo: Frank Penders
Photo: Frank Penders
Photo: Frank Penders

Last crazy moves of the route
Photo: Frank Penders

Friday, November 29, 2013

Come and support me! The Show Off 2013

Crazy Climbing Competition

I'm still living my amazingly good new life. All set in my new house and lovin' my new job. 
Didn't climb much lately - unfortunately. Still having problems with that stupid finger.
However, I booked a flight to Antalya to climb at Geyikbayiri in the holidays AND I accepted the offer to rock my socks off at the show off!

The Show Off 
A crazy fun competition whereby World Cup climbers and Dutch top climbers will make as many sick, cool and crazy moves at possible. Well... so yeah... I should not explain it any further because that arouse my nerves :) Dynoing while leading, upside-down tricks.... I'm not sure what exactly to expect but I guess it will be tons of fun.

I need you to show up! 
Oh and one other thing: please show up to support me! It's all about the audience!!! About you! Because the public is the jury and your applause and cheers decide who wins! As a foreigner in Amsterdam I will need your support for sure! ;)

Check out last years video on Facebook: Bericht door Mountain Network Amsterdam.

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

That moment when it all comes together!

Have you ever experienced such a period in your life in which you felt caught between past and future? In which you kept wondering when life would turn into your favor? And that whole of a sudden.... exactly at the moment when you didn't expect it... it all came together?

That just happened to me this past week!
I got the sweetest job in the world and found myself a cozy house at the perfect place. Done!

After some rejections for career opportunities, even though I was coming really close in getting the jobs, I started to wonder if I was actually made for the working life in general. I figured that I was probably searching too specific, too explicitly for a job that would bring me joy. Maybe I would never be able to find thát dream job! If it would even exist in the first place. Even more problematic was that I didn't know for sure what I exactly liked to do. What I was capable of doing...
Besides I was searching for houses. After being invited several times to take a look at some horrible houses, I started to worry... Was there really no single house in the area that would be affordable, not too crappy and not crazy far away from the places I need to get to?

Now I know: there is a job that I love to do and it fits perfectly to my interests and there is a cute affordable house! And I'm the lucky person to have both, in one week!

A friend in Colorado, Lauren, told me from her own experiences that after a period of bad luck there will always be a period of good luck. I remember responding to her: "I'm curious when that period will start."
Well, it has started for sure now Lauren! 

Sunday, September 15, 2013

3rd place National Bouldering Championship

Finale NK Boulderen 2013
Final boulder @ NK Boulder
Photographer: Paul Lahaye
24 hours in advance I got an email that I could participate at the Dutch Bouldering Championships if I wanted, because someone had unsubscribed. Of course I said yes!

I had to start as first in the semi-finals. We had four boulder problems, 5 minutes each. Jérôme de Boeck was the headsetter. The problems were hard! I think it surprised all of us. At first I thought I had difficulty with the boulders because I had a cold and was shaking/sweating like crazy. In the end I think it might have been the combination, because there were very few tops in the women semi-finals. Vera Zijlstra and Nikki van Bergen were the only two topping more than one problem and showed their mastery.

We started with a slab climb. A few shouldery moves into a tricky sequence on a volume. I managed to climb this problem 2nd go. I didn't feel confident after that one though, because I was so shaky... It turned out that this was quite a good performance, but I didn't know yet by then.
The second problem had some easy moves followed by some difficult holds on a volume. I couldn't find the right position and body tension to move further after the bonus hold.
I got more confidence when I saw the third problem with bigger holds. It started with a powerful move under a roof, moving to the right. It came totally unexpected to me that the move towards the volume was hard! I tried different methods to move further, but couldn't make it to the bonus hold. The problem was also quite hard in the end I think after watching Vera and Nikki finishing this problem.
The last problem looked awesome. Three big volume holds in different colors. In my first try I came to the last hold but didn't trust my heel and couldn't match it. All my other tries were pretty bad and I couldn't get to the last hold any more.

With my one top and some bonus holds I qualified in third place for the finals.
I wasn't really looking forward to the finals because I didn't feel very excited after the semi-finals. Probably because the problems kicked my ass, but in my head I thought I was just not fit because of the cold.
Just before finals I could get it right in my head. If I was placed third for finals, I must have done something good. So I got my mind right and was really psyched for the finals.

Halve Finale NK Boulderen 2013
Last semi-final boulder @ NK Boulder
Photographer: Paul Lahaye

Four problems, four minutes each, eight minutes observation time.
The first problem was a nice straight forward problem starting with a heel hook, cross-over move followed by a pinch for the right hand to move to a big sloper just before the last hold. Holding the pinch I was doubting what to do: left foot high on a slippery foothold or not? I choose to do it, but with a lack of conviction. My second try I skipped the foot and just jumped for it and finished it.
Second we got a problem where we had to use the arête and top out with a mantle move. Unfortunately I didn't even get to the bonus hold.
Our third problem went through a roof on big jugs, moving into a nice sequence with a heel hook where I used the beta that Vera and I figured out during observation time. My heel slipped of in my first go, but sticked my second go. The problem finished with a tricky, balancy move to the end hold. Very nice.
I was really focused for the last boulder. I was almost sure I had to finish this problem in order to maintain my third place. I blew up my first go, but managed to climb it my 2nd go. An pretty easy, fun problem with an undercling into a semi-sloper.

With my three tops out of four I got the third place. Vera got the first place with four tops, Nikki got second with three tops. I was pretty happy, because this was my first podium place at a National Championship.
I guess sweet training and plenty of meat are paying off :)

I cannot say much about the men's finals, except that Nicky got first, Timo second and Elko third!

Hopefully I will qualify for the Dutch Lead Championships as well. Stay tuned.